GETTING THERE

Funicolare di Montesanto from Vomero. The stop is right next to the stop of Cumana or Circumflegrea. The metro linea 2 stop is 100m away. Further, stops Dante, Toledo, Università of metro linea 1 are also there.

WHAT TO SEE

There is so much to see here that it’s hard to make a list.

Assuming you’re taking the subway (Metro linea 2) from wherever you are to the stop Montesanto, you will have to walk along the so called “Spaccanapoli”, a long straight road that splits (spacca) the city in two. Part of it lies on one of the two “decumani”, the roman street denomination. Crossing via Toledo and via Monteoliveto you arrive in Piazza del Gesù. Don’t miss Chiesa del Gesù and Chiesa di Santa Chiara. Pay attention to the façade of Chiesa del Gesù. Some of the pyramid decorating it have some strange symbols carved. They say it’s due to some exoteric ritual to protect the church (some say to curse it). Even if you have to pay, it’s worth visiting the Chiostro di S. Chiara, just beside the homonym church. Proceed further and you will end up in Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, another important highlight. Strangely enough, the church there (Chiesa di San Domenico Maggiore) does not face the piazza, rather it’s rotated. Enter and give a look anyway. Right at the opposite side there is one of the most famous caffé in Naples, Scaturchio. Add at least a coffee and a “sfogliatella” to your checklist. Close to there another chapel is worth visiting, Cappella di San Severo. Even if you have to pay, don’t absolutely miss it. The statue il Cristo velato is one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen. Go downstairs as well.

Another couple of things that I like there. You have to move up to the other “decumano”, namely via Tribunali. In piazza San Lorenzo you can visit some roman ruins, Scavi di San Lorenzo, right beneath the church. On the other side of the piazza there is the entrance of Napoli Sotterranea, where you can visit (some of) the galleries built in the centuries to supply water to the city. There is a similar visit you can make starting from Piazza Plebiscito (see Quartiere Chiaia). I recommend both. If you have to chose only one, I don’t really now. In both cases the visit are only with guided tours (I’m not sure about the scavi di San Lorenzo).

You can also consider a visit to Pio Monte della Misericordia, the collection of paintings there is quite remarkable, and includes one by Caravaggio.

If you proceed along any of the two decumani, you cross via Duomo where the cathedral is found. Twice a year, the miracle of San Gennaro takes place there. The tradition goes that the saint was beheaded and some of its blood was preserved in a glass container, kept in a safe in the cathedral. The blood is clotted, of course. Twice a year people gather praying in the cathedral, the archbishop opens the safe and the blood is fluid again. Miracle! This occurs 19th September (the day San Gennaro died) and again in spring. The container with liquified blood is usually shown for a few weeks after the miracle, and once it was possible to touch and kiss it as a sign of devotion. It goes without saying that, in case the blood does not liquify, it means that San Gennaro is particularly mad at the neapolitans and something bad will happen to the city in that year. Strangely enough, this happens very rarely. Along via Duomo there are one or two shops selling “holy accessories”. If you want to buy one of those funny hat that priests and archbishop wear, you can find it. I’m not sure it’s cheap.

One place that I also like in the area is Chiostro di San Marcellino. On one side there was (there should still be) the Natural History Museum of the university. Don’t expect the size of New York, but even they have their dinosaur, called Dino (if I’m not mistaken). It should be quite full of students there. Since it’s a university building, you should be able to take the stairs down to the level of Corso Umberto I, a very busy road that goes to Piazza Garibaldi (the main station). Along Corso Umberto I there is also the main building of the university.

From there, take the subway. As a subway it’s not a big deal, it’s still under construction so now goes only every 15 min on one track only. But the stations of Università, Toledo (opened last 17th September) and Dante are worth a visit themselves. From Dante to the other end the subway goes more frequently, and takes you up to Quartiere Vomero and beyond. Many of the stations are worth a visit.

EATING

As mentioned above, Caffé Scaturchio is a must. Moreover, along via Tribunali are some of the best places to eat pizza. Pizzeria del Presidente, Sorbillo and Di Matteo are all very good options. A little further there is a very famous one, da Michele. Only  margherita is served here! You have to go along corso Umberto I towards the train station and then take a left in via Pietro Colletta (if I’m not wrong). I haven’t yet managed to go there, but it’s supposed to be one of the best in town. You can only order two types of pizza, I’m not sure they have proper glasses, and it costs close to nothing. Just opposite there is Trianon, also very good.

In piazza Carità, there is the Gelateria della scimmia (scimmia is monkey). It’s not my favorite, but it’s very famous.